A Walk from Ambleside to Elterwater
by Veer Shah | Finding Solace in the Lake District
Hidden Waterfalls, Forest Myths & Quiet Trails
When was the last time you truly wandered?
Sometimes the most unforgettable hikes aren’t the ones that scale peaks, but the ones that move slowly through village edges, forgotten quarries, riverside whispers, and fern-soft forests. This gentle walk from Ambleside to Elterwater takes you into the quieter folds of the Lake District where waterfalls speak in mist, swans drift through twilight, and trees seem to remember your footsteps.
Start in Ambleside: Coffee, Clouds, and the Call of Todd Crag
Ambleside on a grey morning can be unexpectedly soothing. The clatter of rain on slate rooftops, the warmth of a cafe in Rothay Park, and the nearby fells cloaked in low-hanging mist all set the mood for a more reflective kind of day.
From Rothay Park, cross the stream and follow signs toward Todd Crag. Though modest in height, this fell offers wide, sweeping views and a quiet vantage point to glimpse the grandeur of the Langdales beyond. It’s less of a destination, more of a prelude.
Skelwith Force: The River That Speaks
From Todd Crag, the trail bends southwest toward Skelwith Bridge, where the path begins to follow the River Brathay. Just past the bridge, tucked behind trees is Skelwith Force: a compact yet powerful waterfall that appears suddenly, roaring through woodland stillness.
You’ll hear it before you see it: the sound of water slapping rock, rising from the forest floor like a call from something ancient. Mist clings to your cheeks. Linger a while. Let the spray settle into your breath.
Along the River to Elterwater:
Swans and Stillness
Beyond the falls, the trail meanders beside the river, through open fields and occasional groves. Swans move slowly across Elterwater, white shapes gliding on grey canvas. There’s something serene, almost sacred, about their pace, inviting you to walk slower.
“The woods teach stillness. The water, movement. The falls, surrender.”
As you approach the village, Elterwater feels like a place caught between time. Stone cottages, quiet pubs, moss-lined walls. It’s not hard to imagine you’ve crossed into another world.
The Hidden Quarry: A Pool of
Turquoise Flame
Just beyond Elterwater, behind a weaving woodland path, lies an unexpected burst of colour: a disused quarry whose flooded depths shimmer an almost unreal turquoise. Few mention it. Fewer still find it.
The water glows like a forgotten gem. Light skips across its surface as though a secret is trying to rise. Some say the Langdale Elves used to dance here before dawn (more on that here).
Rest Point: Slates Coffee & Kitchen
Loosen your thoughts with a scrumptious sandwich and the sweetest lemon drizzle cake.
Take a Piece of the Path With You
If this walk stirred something in you—a longing, a memory, a stillness—you might enjoy my book:
Finding Solace in the Lake District : Written While Wandering
It traces hikes like this one through poetry, folklore, and gentle questions that don’t need answers.
You can also browse my print shop, where I offer photographic prints from these very walks: moss-glazed fells, mist over water, ancient trees.
Explore the Book & Prints
Subscribe to the Reflection Diary on Substack
Tips for the Walk
Distance: ~4 miles (one way)
Time: 2.5–3 hours with pauses
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Highlights: Todd Cragg view, Skelwith Force, Elterwater Lake, hidden quarry
Best time to go: Early morning mist or golden late afternoon